Repairs/mods
Home Up Repairs/mods Info Links Factoids Specs Clark Literature Pratical Sailor Misc Pics Tide Data Tips & Tricks Other SJ's

OEM Parts
Parts Links
Chainplates
Garmin-AutoHelm
Rudder Repair
Edson Steering

Here's some stuff for Repairs & Mods to your San Juan 28.  Check the Parts Links page for other part sources, info, etc.

Alternator replacement by Stephen Hopkins I recieved my new alternator, and promptly blew that one out as well.  I lined up the wires, then didn't realize that in the process of installing the alternator, I rotated it 180 degrees, i.e. upside down.  The connections face stern, so it is almost impossible to see the markings prior to the hookup.  Well, I had it rebuilt, put it in correctly this time, and engine started right up.  For any of you with other Yanmar 2qm15 engines, the Hitachi 155 amp fits.  Put a lug on the center wire (white red trace) and put it not on a screw, but on the spade marked "L".  The new alternator has a bigger body, so the shield over the fan does not fit.  I am coverless right now, but will check out  Yanmar or just fabricate one myself.  
Boom Repair By Steve Hopkins
Pedestal Steering By Keith Ford
By Denis
Chain Plate repair Great pictures!  By Steve P.  Lots of images -- be patient if you're on a dialup.
AutoHelm Wiring Diagram Nicely done -- Thanks Steve P.!
Shroud Tension

accepted practice for adjusting shrouds is 11-12% for lowers and 13-14% for uppers. Percentages are relative to breaking strength of wire size and are usually marked on the tension guage, ours are 7/32.  Slacken fore & back stays 1st.

PortLight Repair by Bill S.  
Running Rigging selection (Via Harken's CompuSpec) Harken Compu-Spec Hardware selection (Boat name/email is optional)
Boat Name
Your EMail

Shaft Repair  by Bill S.  
Barrier coat Distilled from various emails:
bulletUse a barrier coat only if you are sure your boat is completely dry
bullet

It is my understanding boats have much less of a tendency to blister is colder waters. Boats in the tropics blister far more often.

bullet

If you have an old boat that has never blistered, it probably won't blister.

bullet

Some subscribe to putting a barrier coat on new boats to protect from blistering in the first place.

bulletKeith's SJ28 had hundreds of blisters when I bought her 6 years ago. I opened them up and let them air dry for a couple of months and then filled them with VC WaterTite and then an Interlux barrier coat (4 coats). I personally don't think I let the hull dry long enough, but I pulled the boat after 3 and 6 years and have very few new blisters. I consider myself lucky in that regard.
Rudder Repair By Keith F.
SailDrive Repower  Also has some pics of a bad gearbox! By Keith F.
I repowered my SJ28 from the OMC saildrive to a Volvo saildrive. I had to - my OMC lower unit corroded away in FRESH water. Did research and found out that a lot of OMC products that vintage were cast using punky alloys. As you probably know, many pa rts for the OMC are no longer available (mostly lower end parts, motor parts are mostly available). Too bad, I was not unhappy with the OMC.

I am very capable mechanically and am comfortable doing glass/epoxy work. I did not have any major problems doing the conversion, but it was a lot of work. I ruled out converting to a conventional stern drive because there were simply too many big chalenges. You will have to figure out a structurally adequate motor mount, a structurally adequate prop strut and mounting, and then align those and a drive shaft tube and stuffing box to within a few thousands of an inch  alignment tolerance. It i s do able, but it would have taken me forever working on it evenings and weekends.

The Volvo saildrive conversion was relatively simple.... Remove OMC, glass in large hole (new hole had to be farther back), fit the prefabricated motor/drive mount to the contour of the boat, glass it in, cut new hole, seal it properly, convert fuel system, drop Volvo components in place. That is the short version. There were lots of challenges, such as getting the 340 LB diesel motor suspended 16 feet above the ground so that I could back the boat under it and lower it in place, etc. I worked most evenings and all day every Saturday and Sunday for 3 months. I am somewhat of a perfectionist, so much of it probably could have been done in somewhat less time.

Regarding the desirability of a saildrive vs. a conventional stern drive, there are pros and cons. Corrosion is somewhat of an issue, but overblown in my opinion. Saildrives are very popular in new boats in Europe and they have saltwater too. The key is to use magnesium anodes instead of zinc, and monitor them properly. Saildrives have no stuffing boxes to leak, no drive shafts to keep aligned, and apparently offer less resistance through the water. If you pay attention to new high performance boat s, t hey usually have saildrives because they have less drag. I have a hard time understanding how, but it is apparently true.

New diesel motors approach $7000, saildrive unit approaches $4000. I priced diesel/saildrive units at Yanmar, Volvo, Range (actually a Kubota). They were all in this price range new. I got lucky and found a Volvo unit about 10 years old, but still in original shipping crate and got it for $3000.

I know this is a bit long winded, but thought I would share my thoughts and experience. My recommendation would be to run the OMC for as long as you can, but keep an eye out for a repowering solution you can handle. It will eventually have to be done . I will be happy to share my experiences in more detail if anyone has an interest. I have a few photos of the project at http://www.keithford.net/boatstuff/repower/repower.htm. I have other photos not posted. Contact me if you want more. Good luck .

BTW, diesel fumes are not THAT much better to breathe than gasoline fumes.

 

PLEASE visit our sponsors!

(c) 2000 - , San Juan 28 Sailing club, and Josh Assing
Dedicated to all SJ28 Owners.